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THE
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QUIRE
SEVEN:
CHAPTER
SEVEN
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The Quest for the Winter Harbor, Part Three
The Search for Light
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The Crossing of
Puget Sound
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AWAKING EARLY before the sunrise is becoming easier with each passing day especially since we are now past the autumnal equinox causing the days to grow progressively shorter than the nights. In fact, now the sun rises after seven-thirty am and sets just after six pm.
With the shorter days, the temperatures have dropped (at least this week) to just above freezing at sunrise and then warms up to the lower to mid-sixties for the high of the day. Too, this fall has brought on a distinctively cooler and wetter weather. But, this is nothing new to the Pacific NorthWet.
The Search for Light
The pacific northwest coast has long been known for it′s lighthouses. During this journey, I will strive to stop and visit as many as I am able to do. Thus, I have begun my search for light.
(Day 713 BR) 40°F, 5:30 am. High: 60°F.
(Day 193 IP)
Overnighting in the garage
I arise early this morning to finish packing, especially since I had gone to bed early last night. At seven-forty I drive to the garage where yesterday, I had made an appointment for my tires to be balanced and rotated. When I bought the tires, I purchased the lifetime balance and rotate, but now the tires are two years old and this is the first time that I have had them balanced. I didn′t have to have a receipt because the store keeps the record for me. What a deal!
I grab a cup of coffee and take to the road. My first stop is in Mount Vernon, Washington to drop off Loni′s borrowed wheel chair and here see Lisa, an inactive sister who I encourage to come back to the meetings. Next, I drive to Seattle and stop at an auto parts to see if I could get a receipt lookup for my lifetime starter.
However, the clerk tells me that they did away with the phone number lookup and that I must have the receipt for my warranty. Thus, my life time warranty is no good and I reply back to him that his competition provides the phone number lookup service and that I will never buy another part from NAPA. And I won′t!
From here, I drive to the ferry terminal and get in line for the ride across Puget Sound. I begin writing this journal entry while sitting in the Windjammer before boarding the Washington ferry here in west Seattle. However, the scenes available from this dock are beckoning me to photograph them so I grab my camera and begin focusing.
(b1a07.36.20101019.1314) A lone tree stands tall on the point
(b1a07.36.20101019.1315) Mountain, Forest, Shoreline, Ocean and Fog
Soon after, we board the ferry which embarks from the Fauntleroy Landing to begin the crossing of Puget Sound toward Southward Landing. In no time, we arrive at a landing and because one of the dock workers at Fauntleroy told me that the ferry goes to Southward first and then back to Vashon, I think we have arrived in Southward and while waiting to get off, the ferry begins moving again.
I get out, walk to one of the deck hands and ask if that was Southward. He tells me, no, this ferry stops at Vashon Island first. After the stress caused, methinks that the dock and deck hands should get there information straight.
As we continue our approach to the peninsula, we enter Clovos Passage, pass directly south of Blake Island and then the ferry slows its engines as it begins the approach to Southward Landing. This has been a short passage, about twenty minutes of actual travel on the water but the total time between driving on to driving off has been almost an hour. Still, it only costs nine dollars and fifteen cents for the Windjammer and myselƒ saving me the five hour drive around the sound.
Once back on land, I drive north onto the peninsula, cross the hood canal, a narrow but deep passage down which years earlier I had watched submarines travel. Then I drive through Port Angeles and then up to Hurricane Ridge.
The road up is about eighteen miles with a seven percent grade but it is not a bad drive to the top at 5242 feet. When I arrive, I find the lodge mostly shut down and the views limited because of the haze enshrouding the mountains.
(b1a07.36.20101019.1648) View from Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park
I had planned on staying here until the sunset for the photo opportunity but instead decide to drive back down to Port Angeles and do some grocery shopping. The store that I stop at also has WiFi and so upload my latest journal entry. This day has passed by quickly with it already after eight o′clock and I am quite tired.
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The
Olympic Peninsula
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(Day 712 BR) 41°F, 5:30 am.
(Day 194 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
Upon awaking, I go inside of the 24-hour grocery to wash up in the men′s room and get a cup of coffee. However, what I find is that neither are open until six o′clock so I just take up a seat in the coffee shop and wait. Once I have a cup of coffee in hand, I return to the Windjammer and begin driving on US route 101 around the peninsula and down the coast.
My first stop is at the Hoh rain forest where I hope to get a new National Parks Annual Pass but there are no rangers in the park at nine when I arrive. This makes twice that I have tried to give the National Parks Service some money, the first being at Hurricane Ridge yesterday.
Continuing west then south on US 101, I follow Olympic Peninsula towards the Columbia river and stop first at Ruby Beach.
(b1a07.36.20101020.0915) The Ruby Beach on Olympic Peninsula Coast
(b1a07.36.20101020.0926) The Ruby Beach on Olympic Peninsula Coast
(b1a07.36.20101020.1402) Olympic Peninsula Coast near the Columbia River
I drive until I see a sign on US Hwy 101 stating: Lewis and Clark National Park, next left. Of course, my favorite recreation is visiting the National Parks but this is the first that I have ever heard about this particular National Park.
Methinks, Now I am excited! However, just to make sure that I really did read the sign incorrectly, I turn around, drive back to the sign to look at it again. What I find is that it really does read National Park and that I was not hallucinating. I make the left turn, veering from my route in search of this All New National Park.
Following the signs, I arrive at Lewis and Clark
National Historical Park. Not to take anything away from Meriwether Lewis and William Clark because I well relate to both fellow vagabonds, but I am totally disappointed and even a bit angry about the park signage stating that this park is a National Park when it is clearly only a National Historical Park.
Is there a Difference and Does it Matter?
This made me recall to mind when I had previously wanted to know if there is a difference. I was in west Texas at the time and had just arrived at Guadalupe Mountains National Park. When looking at these Texas mountains, I questioned myselƒ why this park had been chosen to become a national park and not just a national monument like Colorado national monument, which I felt was an equally impressive mountain park.
I also asked myselƒ and was determined to find out if there is a difference between a National Park, a National Monument and any other such national park.
Thus, during my visit of the Texas state and national parks last year, I ask myselƒ, "What is so significant about this mountain range that it has received National Park status." Then, I ask this same question to the ranger in the visitor′s center and he suggests that I complete the local senior ranger program to find out.
What Make a National Park Special
So, in order to find the answer to my question, I take his challenge and in doing so, gain a lot of knowledge about this park. Too, during the process of completing the program brochure, I find the answer to my question.
Paramount to becoming a National Park, a location must have multiple substantially significant assets to offer to the public or need to be protected. A national park has not only a large variety of unique assets, but those assets must stand as nonpareil in their characteristics, quality and quantity that are to be available within the national park. The assets of Guadalupe Mountains National Park include but is not limited to:
First, the mountain,
El Capitan in the Guadalupe Mountains is the ceiling of Texas, or more commonly known as the high point of the state.
Second, the park has three distinct life zones: desert, riparian and mountain which three zones all host a large number of life forms, both plant and animal. The Riparian zone is the most remarkable because it is a well watered canyon that is full of animals and plants year round, despite being entirely surrounded by the other two life zones.
Third, the Guadalupe mountain range is one of only three ranges in North America continent that has an exposed reef with fossilized marine life.
Fourth, the prominent features of El Capitan has served in modern times as a distinguished landmark for travelers from throughout the southern United States, much like
Beaverhead was a prominent landmark during the time of the Lewis and Clark expedition.
Finally, the Butterfield stagecoach had a regular route through this area.
The National Park Patch
When I completed the Guadalupe Mountains senior ranger program, I gave the brochure to the park ranger, which he then checked my answers. After finishing his checking, he told me I had completed this program with one of the highest scores he had seen, and that I have completed it with honors. As part of the status of becoming a "Senior Ranger" at Guadalupe Mountains National Park, I receive a certificate of completion, a senior ranger badge and an embroidered patch, (which is in fact all that I really wanted in the first place.)
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Lewis and Clark National Historical Park
While in the Historical Park, I drive to the cape and visit two of the Washington
Lighthouses and take photos of both.
(b1a07.36.20101020.1451) Cape Disappointment Light, Ilwaco, Washington (1856)
(b1a07.36.20101020.1400) North Head Light, Ilwaco, Washington (1898)
Too, the WWII cannon bunkers at Cape Disappointment are amazingly well maintained, this being the first time I have seen bunkers with lights and displays inside, as most all are just dark and damp dungeon-like cement tunnels and rooms.
(b1a07.36.20101020.1510) Fort Canby on Cape Disappointment
(b1a07.36.20101020.1508) Fort Canby on Cape Disappointment
Then I drive out of the Historical Park, head back to the highway and proceed on the route that this non-national park distracted me from.
Leaving the Lewis and Clark National Historical park, methinks that I have learned quite a lot while here and that I am glad that I was distracted from my route.
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The North
Oregon Coast
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After crossing the Columbia River into Oregon, I begin taking photos of the coast but knowing there is not too much time before sunset, I look for a place to park and cook my supper, driving past both Seaside and Cannon Beach.
(b1a07.36.20101020.1634) Northern Oregon Coast
(b1a07.36.20101020.1635) Northern Oregon Coast
As I continue south on US 101, briefly see a small parking area and have to turn around to go back. When I arrive, I find it to be Hug Point Wayside and a great place to cook supper. After cleaning the dishes, I grab my camera and walk out onto the beach for some photos of the shoreline and then the sunset.
(b1a07.36.20101020.1749) Hug Point Wayside Beach
As the sun approaches the horizon, the light on the beach becomes very diffused, almost nonexistent but it makes for an interesting photo.
(b1a07.36.20101020.1759) Hug Point Wayside Beach
Then, when the sun drops very near to the horizon and approaches
suntouch, my photos continue to capture the entire amazing display.
More of these photos can be seen at the
2010 Suntouch Gallery.
Shortly after six this evening, I decide to drive south until I begin to get sleepy which is at about ten pm, when I pull into a shopping center for the night. As to what town this is, I don′t know exactly but according to my GPS, I am one hundred miles north of Coos Bay. It has been a long day, good night.
(Day 711 BR) 50°F.
(Day 195 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
This morning, I stop first at a state park and drive to the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. I take a couple photos of the lighthouse, then go into the museum and gift center to look at the exhibits.
(b1a07.36.20101021.0904) Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (1871)
Upon entering I am greeted by an older couple who offers to answer any questions. I tell them that I just arrived for the first time and would like to look around the museum. Then if I come up any questions, I will let them know. They smile and tell me to enjoy.
The building is an old Coast Guard barracks with the gift shop in the basement. The first and second floors contain the museum which has a collections of Coast Guard, maritime, lighthouse, and other artifacts and information about local events in history.
When I return to the front desk, I say to the hosts that I have two questions. I begin with, "How many light houses are there in Oregon?" He says, "Officially, nine but there is a privately owned lighthouse near Cape Perpetua making ten."
Then I say, "The second question is, Are all the dots on the photo locations where the Japanese balloon bombs exploded during WWII?" He answers "Yes."
I then tell the host that I never knew that there were so many bombs that were exploded over the west coast, that from the dots, there must have been thousands of them. Again, he said "Yes, the balloon bombs were seen or found in many states including as far east as Texas and Kansas."
Then I say, "Here is a bonus question for you." He smiles as I ask the third question. "Was the Coast Guard person with the rifle shooting down the balloons."
The host answers "Yes, there were many who were balloon shooters." He continued "For six months during 1944 and 1945, the Japanese launched over 9000 explosive balloons but only about 300 balloon bombs were found or observed in North America. The only record of a balloon bomb killing anyone was in Oregon when a family of six who, while on a picnic found a balloon and began examining it. The balloon exploded and killed the mother and five children. This was the only deaths on the continent during World War II."
As I begin to leave the museum, I say thanks for all the answers. I return to the jammer, leave the park and drive south through Newport on US 101.
(b1a07.36.20101021.0910) Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport, Oregon
Upon crossing the Yaquina bay bridge, I leave Newport and enter what the map calls the central coast of Oregon.
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The Central
Oregon Coast
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Soon after I come to an area of lush green shore and a large offshore island called seal rock, where just south is a long line of rock reef with a lush green shore.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1020) The shore is lined with lush green shrubs
(b1a07.36.20101221.1022) Seal Rock is the large island to the right
Working my way slowly down the Oregon coastline, I find so many places where my camera tugs on me to stop and take a photograph. Here, the highway is seen on the left of this view looking south.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1024) Offshore rock along a stretch of US 101
I stop in Waldport, Oregon at the visitor′s center to get a map of Oregon and begin to examine it for locations of other lighthouses, finding that there are seven shown on this Oregon map.
I ask the host "How many lighthouses are there in Oregon?" to which she gives me a brochure and tells me "Nine." I look at the brochure and determine that the next lighthouse is about twenty miles to the south, so I leave the center and head south to locate the lighthouse.
I have always loved visiting lighthouses and decide that I will try to visit as many of the Oregon lighthouse on this trip that I can. I also stop at many other view points for photos of the coast.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1118) Homes on rocky coastline near Yachets, Or
After driving for an hour, I stop at Cape Perpetua and take photos of the blow hole or what the sign here says, a shooting spout.
(b1a07.36.20101021.1122) The Blow Hole at Cape Perpetua
(b1a07.36.20101221.1154) A sign calls this Brays Point, Or
(b1a07.36.20101221.1156) A scenic rest stop on the Oregon Coast
Soon after, I arrive at the light and stop at the beach below for photos.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1203) The Heceta Head Lighthouse from the beach (1896)
Leaving the beach location, I drive south on US 101 looking for a better view of the light when I come to a view much better than I could have expected.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1211) Heceta Head Light from the Highway View Point
(b1a07.36.20101221.1214) Heceta Head Light from the Highway View Point
(b1a07.36.20101221.1217) Heceta Head Light and Keeper′s House
A stop at Darlingtonia state wayside introduces me to a few mushrooms of the species Amanita muscaria and the local fly eating plant called the cobra lily.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1308) Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria)
(b1a07.36.20101221.1312) Cobra Lily, (Darlingtonia californica)
I drive south for several more hours and come to the Umpqua River, drive into the state park and stop to see the lighthouse here. Afterwards, I drive to Cape Blanco for photos of the light there but the light of this day is failing when I arrive at Cape Blanco.
(b1a07.36.20101221.1538) Umpqua River Light, Winchester Bay, Oregon (1857)
(b1a07.36.20101221.1719) Cape Blanco Light, near Sixes, Oregon (1870)
By eight pm, I arrive back in Coos Bay and locate an all night d-mart to park for the night. Then, I decide to call my brother Robert and see what he is doing. When I ask him, he says that he is just watching the football game and that I shoud come on over. I arrive about ten minutes later and we sit up for a couple of hours talking.
Finally, I retire to the jammer for the evening.
(Day 710 BR) 51°F.
(Day 196 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
Full Moon. Hunter′s Moon
This morning I awake at six-thirty, get dress and when I come into the kitchen find that Robert has made coffee. We sit and talk until seven-fifty when he has to go to work. I also leave, dress in my suit and head to the hall for the ministry meeting, arriving at almost half past after eight.
It is not long before the friends to show up. I learn there is a circuit overseer visiting the Bayview congregation and I attend the meeting for the ministry.
(b1a07.36.20101022.0827) Dual Kingdom Hall, North Bend, Oregon
I meet Ben and Sandy and we talk some and then Sandy asks if I would like to join her and her husband′s group. We have a really great morning and I place all of my literature and one set of Ben′s magazines. We return to the hall and I go to my car to make my lunch.
Then, for the afternoon meeting I am able to work in the overseer′s group. It is a nice afternoon in which we work in the ministry until about four. I then begin working on organizing my van and before long, Robert arrives home. Robert, Ellen and I have supper together and then we talk as we each work on our own computers.
It is an enjoyable evening but I am exhausted when I go to bed.
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The South
Oregon Coast
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(Day 709 BR) 45°F.
(Day 197 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
It is not until almost eight when I awake. Robert, Ellen and I made preparations to go to the shore to watch the waves and take some photos. We head out just before noon and stop first at a restaurant for lunch and I have a tuna steak burger which I really enjoyed.
Then we drive to the shore and begin taking photos. We even stop for some photos of the Cape Arago lighthouse but I have to use my zoom to even get close.
(b1a07.36.20101023.1426) Cape Arago Light in the distance
(b1a07.36.20101023.1429) Cape Arago Light at full zoom
(b1a07.36.20101023.1430) Cape Arago Light in Heavy Surf
Then we go to view point high over the water and watch as the surf pounds the cliffs. Afterwards, we walk through a botanical garden which has many roses in bloom. Finally, we return to Roberts home and while having pizza I help Robert set up a web site for he and Ellen to share there photos. It has been a long day
(Day 708 BR) 44°F.
(Day 198 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
I awake at just before seven and go back to sleep. We were up until after one last night creating a web site for Ellen so she can upload her photos to share with others. We also were checking out computer components for a new computer for Robert.
We sit around and wait for Shawn, Joy, Wyatt and Christian to arrive so we can go for lunch. At noon, we head out for Mexican food and at ten til one, I leave for the meeting. The circuit overseer is giving the talk and I really enjoy a preview of our upcoming visit.
Shortly after the meeting, I head north to look for the Cleft on the Rock. Just after I pass Cape Perpetula, I see it on the left and stop to take some photos.
(b1a07.36.20101024.1718) Clef on the Rock
Then, I continue north to Newport and drive into the North Head state park which is just about to close. The ranger tell me that I can go into the park but I only have fifteen minutes. I think that fifteen minutes is more than enough time to take a photos of the light house.
(b1a07.36.20101024.1807) North Head Light
With these two done, I only have two more on the coast that I want to photograph tomorrow and maybe a third one in Astoria. After leaving the park, I stop in Newport to connect to the internet to upload the photos and then park at the d-mart for the evening. I will be going to sleep early tonight after a little time on my journal catching up.
It begins to rain hard at eight and then there was a flash of lightening and about seven seconds later the thunder. The rain continues on and off the rest of the evening.
(Day 707 BR) 43°F.
(Day 199 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
It seems that this town is a good overnight stop for me as I have stopped here both directions. I begin my travel north in search of the lighthouses on the Washington coast.
After driving to the first one in Grays Harbor, I go online to read up a little and find out that some of the ones that are listed on the internet no longer exist and so I decided to change from my original route.
(m4light-wa.gray.20101025.1742) Grays Harbor Light (1898) Westport, WA.
I arrived in Aberdeen just after sunset, park for the night and the rain begins to come down hard. I think that tomorrow I will head for home.
(Day 706 BR) 42°F.
(Day 200 in Port)
Overnighting in a parking lot
When the early dawn light appeara, I get up and go inside for a cup of hot.
Then, I begin my drive north, the last lighthouse to view will be Admiralty Lighthouse on Whidbey Island.
(Day 705 BR) 42°F.
(Day 201 in Port)
Overnighting in the garage
I had decided to return home yesterday afternoon, but still wanted to visit at least one more lighthouse so this morning I head south to Bush Point which turns out to be more of a light-shed than a lighthouse.
(b1a07.36.20101027.1318) Bush Point Light
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