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The Mountain
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THE EARTH GALLERY
The North American Continent

The Geological Wonders, Mountains & Ranges: NC &: TN Go Down Go Back
Mountain: Clingmans Dome
Clingmans Dome Information:
Clingmans Dome is a mountain in the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee and North Carolina in the southeast United States. Its native American name in Cherokee is Kuwahi or Kuwohi which translates to English as mulberry place. The Cherokee People have had strong connections to both the mountain and the surrounding area, long before the land became a national park.
The Clingmans Dome (now known as Kuwohi, see below) is the highest point in Great Smoky Mountains and features a 360 degree 45 foot tall concrete observation tower (built in 1959) accessible with a half mile paved trail. The view from the summit tower offers panoramic views spanning seven states. Both the mountain and the tower are located on the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee, is open year-round, although access from the park road closes from December 01 to March 31.
Smoky Mountains's Highest Peak: Renamed Kuwohi
The US Board of Geographic Names voted in favor of a request from the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians to officially change the name Clingmans Dome to Kuwohi, according to a news release from the park. The Cherokee name for the mountain translates to “mulberry place.”
On 19 September 2024, the highest peak in Great Smoky Mountains National Park is officially reverting to its original Cherokee name. This name change happened some 165 years after the previous name change from Kuwohi.
Further, the road that was once referred to as the Clingmans Dome Skyway Drive (or just Skyway Drive) has also been renamed to Kuwohi Road.
The Appalachian Mountains Region
The Smoky Mountains
The Death of Fraser Firs
The balsam woolly adelgid (Adelges piceae) is an insect pest that infests and kills stands of Fraser fir (Abies fraseri) in the spruce-fir zone. The Fraser fir occurs naturally only in the southern Appalachians and previously was the dominant tree at the highest elevations.
The adelgid was introduced on trees imported from Europe, and the fir has little natural defense against it. The insect injects the tree with toxins that blocks the path of nutrients through the tree causing these trees to literally starve to death. As can be seen, thousands of dead Fraser fir snags are all that are left on the highest mountain peaks.
Description:
At 6,643 feet, Clingmans Dome is the highest point in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the highest peak on the Appalachian Trail, the highest point in Tennessee, and the third highest mountain east of the Mississippi. Only Mt. Mitchell (6,684 feet) and Mt. Craig (6,647), both located in Mt. Mitchell State Park in western North Carolina, rise higher.
Clingmans Dome consists of three peaks, two subpeaks, one on each side of the primary peak, which is Clingmans Dome. The western sub-peak is Mount Buckley at elevation 6560 feet and the eastern sub-peak is Mount Love at elevation 6400 feet.
US highway 441 crosses the Smoky Mountains from Gatlinburg, Tennessee to Cherokee, North Carolina. At the point where it crests the Appalachian Mountains is Newfound Gap, a mountain pass with an elevation of 5048 feet, and in the pass has been built the Rockefeller Memorial, the site where the former US president, Franklin D. Roosevelt formally dedicated the Smoky Mountains National Park on 02 September 1940.
Range: Smoky Mountains
Elevation: 6,643 feet
Prominence: 4,503 feet
Age: 560 billion years old
Location:
A seven mile road leads from US 441 in Newfound Gap to a parking lot that is a half mile climb to the summit. For visitors willing to climb the steep half-mile walk to the summit of Clingmans Dome, there is a 45 foot observation tower, built in 1959, that offers spectacular 360° views of the Smokies and beyond. Although Clingmans Dome Observation Tower is open year-round, the road leading to the parking lot is closed from December 1 through March 31, and whenever else the weather conditions require.
Coordinates: The Cherokee name for the mountain is Kuwahi or Kuwohi (???), translating to 'mulberry place'.[11][12] According to a Cherokee myth recorded by ethnologist James Mooney in the late 19th century, the mountain was the home of the White Bear, the great chief of all bears, and the location of one of the bears' council houses. The enchanted lake of Ataga'hi ("Gall Place"), the waters of which could cure wounded bears, was believed by the Cherokee to be located somewhere between Kuwohi and the headwaters of the Oconaluftee River to the east.
Nearest City:
Best Route to Top: Clingmans Dome Scenic Drive, (now called Kuwohi Road)
Geographical Data:
Geographical Region: Appalachian Mountains

The Ancients
Ancient Steps:
First Wayƒarer
First Migration (The Algonquian Cultures)
The Cherokee of the South Atlantic area are part of the original nation which descended from the Sons of Abimael, those sons who settled throughout the eastern mountainous and coastal regions of southeast North America. It is the belief that there were the following sons of Abimael: Cayuga, Oneida, Onondaga, Mohawk, Seneca, Tuscarora) as well as Wendat (Huron), Susquehannock, and others.
The Cherokee Indians are the primary Indigenous people with deep, ancestral ties to the Smoky Mountains, inhabiting the Southern Appalachian region for what some experts believe, thousands of years. Too, it is believed that they maintained permanent settlement near fertile river bottoms, built wooden homes (not teepees), cultivated crops, and utilized vast trade routes throughout Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee.
The Cherokee referred to the area and the land of the blue smoke, which in their language is Shaconage (pronounced: Sha-kon-o-hey) and that the name for the tallest mountain was called by them, the mulberry place, which in their language is Kuwohi and/or Kuwahi.
Removal from their Homeland
During the late 1830s, most of the Cherokee were forced by the US government Indian Removal Policy to vacate their original homeland and move to the Indian Territory in Oklahoma. Their forced removal was part of the Trail of Tears which in the Cherokee language was Nunna-da-ul-tsun-yi, which when translated to English is The trail where they cried.
This Indian removal resulting in the forced relocation of over 16,000 Cherokee people from their ancestral homeland in the southeastern United States to the designated Indian Territory, what is in modern-day is called Oklahoma. This relocation, during 1838 and 1839 resulting in over 4,000 deaths, which were due to exposure, starvation and disease. This forced march
The Cherokee traveled approximately 800 to 1,200 miles depending on which route taken, traveling by foot, horse, and/or wagon during their forced removal to Indian Territory, which journey took several months as they traversed through Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas, sometime during adverse weather.
The Cherokee name for the mountain is Kuwahi or Kuwohi, translating to 'mulberry place'. According to a Cherokee myth recorded by ethnologist James Mooney in the late 19th century, the mountain was the home of the White Bear, the great chief of all bears, and the location of one of the bears' council houses. The enchanted lake of Ataga'hi ("Gall Place"), the waters of which could cure wounded bears, was believed by the Cherokee to be located somewhere between Kuwohi and the headwaters of the Oconaluftee River to the east.

The Earth
Geological Wonders:
Forests:
National:
Tennessee
Cherokee National Forest
North Carolina
Nantahalla National Forest
Piggah National Forest
Mountains and Ranges:
Appalachian Mountains
Waterways:
Lakes:
Rivers:
Springs:
Waterfalls:
Wonders:
Hot Springs:
Hot Mineral Springs Resort
(35.8960925, -82.8261963)
prices start at $60.00 per hour
Parks:
National:
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
State:
County:

The Modern Man
Architecture:
Boats:
Bridges:
Forts:
Grand Lodges:
Lighthouses
Piers:

The Steps
Pathway Journeys:
Steps Afoot
Footpath Journeys:

Steps Afield
Roadpath Journeys:

The Appendixes
Campgrounds:

The 2014 Journey, Clingmans Dome Go Down Go Up
Here for the Sunrise
I have heard that the sunrise from Clingmans Dome parking lot is often superb, so on Wednesday, 29 October, 2014, I arrive here shortly after sunset to overnight in the lot and watch the sunrise in the morning.
Thursday, 30 October 2014, Clingmans Dome Parking Lot, NC.
(Day 609 JO) 34°F. 6:39 am, clear
Overnighting in a parking lot. Elev. 6289 feet.
I am awaken not by the birdsong but by a car driving by and methinks that I will not be the only one who plans to photograph today′s suntouch. I lie in the bag to stay warm and then another car drives past causing the need for me to look at the time and when I do, I say, Wow, already? The night did pass quickly, methinks. Then I arise, start the jammer and by now two more cars have arrived, the cars continue for a time more as the light on the horizon begins to illuminate.
I grab my camera, step out of the jammer and walk to a spot that is not occupied by the gathering crowd. Shortly after seven this morning, I begin taking photos and continue for about a little more than an hour.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.0709) Clingmans Dome Parking Lot Sunrise.
Just ten minutes pass and already, the sky above the sunglow has turned a brilliant blue.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.0718) Clingmans Dome Parking Lot Sunrise.
Some time after, the sunglow begins to shine onto the fog filled valleys below the horizon and this really makes for a remarkable sunglow.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.0744) Clingmans Dome Parking Lot Sunglow.
Just before eight this morning, the sun breaks the horizon to form the suntouch.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.0753) Clingmans Dome Parking Lot Suntouch.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.0754) Clingmans Dome Parking Lot Sunglow.
Once the show is over, I pack out and drive down from the top of the mountain, stop at a couple of locations for a few more photos.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.1051) AT Sign, Clingmans Dome 6.2 miles.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2014-1030.1111) AT Sign, Katahdin, only 1972.0 miles.

The 2013 Journey, Clingmans Dome Go Down Go Up
(Day 205 JO) 69°F. 7:00 am, rain
Upon arriving in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, I stop first at the visitor center... and then up along a resplendent park drive to Clingmans Dome. The half mile path to the tower on the top is quite steep and the whole walk is in the rain and thick fog.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1440) Trail from Parking lot to Clingmans Dome
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1441) Visitors Center on Trail to Clingmans Dome
Just before arriving at the tower, I detour on the side trail to the Appalachian Trail and take steps on the same path I walked upon so very many years ago.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1516) Appalachian Trail near Clingmans Dome
This short walk becomes one down memory lane as a flood of memories rush through my thoughts. Walking north on the path, I come upon an area of the trail that looks like a lake with rock islands; oh how I remember those days of sloshing along the AT.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1515) Appalachian Trail near Clingmans Dome
Still further yet is an area filled with jagged rocks and those past many days of constant rock hopping come clearly to my mind.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1517) Appalachian Trail near Clingmans Dome
Also, the roots covering nearly every spot of the trail remind me of the several times they were the cause of me loosing my footing. Yes, Rocks and Ruts and Roots were the norm along that never ending trudge and those words became my jingle to sing each and every day.
I finally decide that the time for reminiscing needs to come to an end and return to the asphalt path back to the Observation Tower. Leaving the AT, I return to my walk to the tower and then arrive at the bottom of the circular ramp to the top.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1519) Clingmans Dome Observation Tower in Fog
Arriving here at the ramp to the top, now in very thick fog, suddenly brings back a whole new group of memories.
Except for the thick fog, my summit climb today is much like it was thirty-five years ago on my first ascent: windy and cold.
After a long contemplative period atop this superb energy location, I walk down the circular ramp and then slowly down the paved tower path to the parking lot and being so inspired, sing verses of the Wandering Hiker, the same verses I sang long ago on this trail.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0921.1547) Clingmans Dome Visitors Center in Fog
Upon arriving at the jammer, I get out my computer and add words to my journal. It is now after dark and I am in the last vehicle in the parking area atop of old Smoky; the wind velocity has increased causing my car to shake, so I drive down to Newfound Gap and park in the trailhead parking.
This has been a wonderful day, and it does not even matter to me that the weather has been so nasty, my memories were too profound for any negative effect by the weather.

Sunday, 22 September, 2013, Newfound Gap, Great Smoky NP.
(Day 206 JO) 59°F. 5:00 am, sunny
Overnighting in a parking lot
Up shortly after the sunrise and get out to stretch my old bones and see that the sun is shining brightly, the air is crisp, the sky is dark blue and clear. I spend a few minutes walking about but soon drive back up to Old Smoky for the views but don't stay long because I want to visit a few more places today before returning to Spring Hill this evening.
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome
(m2cont-nam-geol-mo-nc-clingmansdome-2013-0922.0516) View from Clingmans Dome Parking Lot
The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome The Great Smoky Mountains
Clingmans Dome

The 1978 Journey, Clingmans Dome Go Down Go Up
Monday, 10 April 1978, Appalachian Trail, NC.
(Day 20 AT) 42°F. 7:00 am, clear
Derrick Knob Lean-to
Sleep in until seven, clean up and last to leave this morning. The big one is today, the highest mountain on the AT and upon this summit plan to eat my chocolate bar. Yes, it is finally time to switch form my long woolen clothing into my short cotton ones because the mid-days are warming up nicely now and moving vigorously keeps me comfortable in the cold early morning.
Additionally, with the extraordinarily clear skies today, there are views all day of tall mountains in every direction. Enjoy my lunch at Double Springs Gap lean-to (5590') enjoy lunch while talking with three forest service men who arrive on horseback... to cut up the downed trees on the trail. Soon after leaving the lean-to, find a potato on a rock and put it in my left shirt pocket with plans on eating it tonight.
The big climb begins by going through a beautiful beech, spruce and fir forest of trees, some a hundred feet high and many more only inches tall. The smells here remind me of those days sojourning at Boy Scout summer camp in my youth.
The trail takes me over the summit of Mount Buckley (6582') and then it continues along the crest; first down to a gap and then up through a thick balsam fir forest to arrive on top of Old Smoky, the local name of Clingmans Dome (6643').
Shortly before beginning my climb up the ramp to the top of the tower, an older couple approaches me and asks permission to take a picture of me. (They later send me this photo picturing me atop the dome with the potato in my left shirt pocket!)
The Appalachian Mountains Region
The Smoky Mountains
The above are excerpts from Episode One, Volume One, Journey to Katahdin. A free digital copy of this book can be downloaded from: The Wayƒarers Store

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